(last updated Dec 13, 2005)

A Dance Vacation in Ireland

Marilyn Moore and Jim Owens spent last November (1999) in Ireland. Their trip was a nice mix of touring and dancing, which we think our GWCC readers will find interesting. With their permission, we have taken the liberty of combining excerpts from Jim’s travel notes and Marilyn’s dance notes to try to give a feel for the dancing experience in the context of the rest of the trip.

From Dublin to Wexford to Waterford and finally to a friend’s farm in Dungarven.

Tuesday 2 November, 1999

“We left [from BWI]. In the end we landed at DCA after two hours in the air and thus missed our flight to Ireland. On landing at Reagan National the flight attendant welcomed us to Washington and wished us a pleasant day! Duh!

Wednesday 3 November, 1999

On the third we got away very early, spent several hours in Kennedy (suffused with its usual charm) and were able to catch our rescheduled flight.

Thursday 4 November, 1999

Our Dan Dooley car in Dublin was ready when we were. After a few unsuccessful tries to call our B&B and listening to the message on the answering machine we took off driving on the left. Dublin in the morning is traffic choked and we were in the flood to downtown. It went fairly well until I struck a curb and lost a hubcap. We retrieved it quickly and continued on. The Hilton House turned out to be a lovely Georgian house. After a nap to recover from the flight we went off exploring on foot.

Friday 5 November 1999

The day was wearing on so we headed off to Wexford. The coastal road was pretty and in some areas striking but it is very narrow and winding. During the summer it would be a tough drive. We stopped at Arklow for a look at the river and a bottle of water. From Arklow to Gorey we followed the N11 and then back to the coast road until we arrived at Wexford. [For a three day Workshop Weekend with Mick Mulkerrin at Whites Hotel]

White's is an ancient building where Daniel O'Connell, Stuart Parnell, and Neville Chamberlain stayed in the past. It has been an Inn for over 200 years. The ancient stables have been reworked into a large ballroom, the dining rooms are recent, there are two bars, interior to the hotel and the other opening on to a street, and a carvery where lunch is served.

Friday night there was a ceili in the ballroom. The musicians were local and good. John and Teresa Foley were in the crowd as well as Mick Mulkerrin. The sets danced were the Cashel, Baile Bhuirne Jig, Clare Lancers, Connemara, Newport, Clare Plain and the Corofin Plain.

Cashel Set

First and third figures: Those who are not in home position returned home to their partners on the last two bars of the retire rather than on the first two bars of the swing.

Fifth figure: In one venue, the halting lead around was danced to begin the figure. In all other places, the circle was danced to begin the figure. Nowhere did we repeat the circles between the top and side parts.

Saturday, 6 November 1999

Saturday Mick taught the Clare Orange and Green, the Kildownet Half Set and the Killyon set. The dancers ranged from experienced to beginners. When the instruction was over we walked the town again and hoped to get a coffee and scone at a coffee shop located in the morning. Alas, it was closed and there was nothing to do but go to the hotel bar for a pint. Following dinner in the dining room we rested up for the Saturday night ceili.

The Abbey Ceili Band provided the music and it was grand. There was a much larger crowd than on Friday and the entire ballroom had been opened so there was plenty of room to dance. We had a number of excellent sets and a few not so good. A Clare Lancers with a couple from England and a couple from Scotland was quite good. We also danced the West Kerry with John and Teresa. The sets were the Connemara, Cashel, Newport, Clare Plain, Baile Bhuirne Jig, Clare Lancers, Clare Orange and Green, the Military Two Step and the Gay Gordons as well as a few waltzes.

Sunday, 7 November 1999

Sunday afternoon another ceili with a somewhat smaller crowd took place. The sets were the Newport, Baile Bhuirne, Connemara, West Kerry, Caledonian, Labasheeda, Kildownet and the Clare Lancers. A group of young dancers who were recent All-Ireland set dance winners demonstrated their North Roscommon Half Set.

North Roscommon Half Set Step (as demonstrated by the young dancers from that area in Wexford, November 1999) (similar to the Cavan Reel step) (the dance wasn't taught, but I asked the dancers about the step afterwards)

Skip, brushing right foot and jumping on left foot
End with right foot crossed in front of left foot
Two jumps on the crossed feet, end with weight on left foot
Right heel, right step

Repeat on opposite feet
Continue step on alternating feet throughout the dance

Wexford is an ancient city having been settled by Vikings around 700 AD. Some of the old walls dating to the 12th century have been excavated. The estuary of the river Slaney provided a large sheltered anchorage. It was also a center of the Rebellion of 1798. A statue of a pikeman is prominently located in the center of the city.

Monday, 8 November 1999

We left Monday by the road less traveled and wandered through the countryside towards Waterford. I had found, on the map, a bridge that crossed the river into Waterford. After some backcountry exploration we discovered it was a railroad bridge. We know now that the black line is not a road but a railroad.

We made our way to the N25 and crossed at New Ross and so to the Clock Tower on the Waterford quay. After a phone call to Cathy O'Neill, she met us at the Tower as planned. We ate at a lovely Chinese restaurant on High Street and walked back to the Bridge Hotel for dancing.

There was a six piece local band playing who were excellent. We missed some of the dances but the ones danced while we were there were the Newport, Connemara, Gay Gordons, Military Two Step and waltzes. Many of the same crowd who had been at Wexford were there.

Tuesday, 9 November 1999

On the morning of the 9th we went back to town to look over Reginald's tower. This tower formed part of the early Viking fortifications for Waterford and was in use until the 19th century as part of the city walls. After we finished the tour we stopped by Dooley's for lunch and took off down the coast road to Dungarvan.

We found the drive lovely if somewhat challenging but we had no time to stop. The views were spectacular along the coast with steep hills and lovely views of beaches here and there.

Teresa fed us dinner and we took a ride in John's car to the Park Hotel in Dungarvan for John Creed's set dance class. He teaches with tapes and did the Clare Lancers, Newport and the Roscahill Sets. We stopped at the bar for a pint before starting home. It had been a full day.

Wednesday, 10 November 1999

John decided to teach me to drive his tractor and we went off to inspect his 250 acre farm.

After lunch Teresa took us on a back roads trip to the fishing port of Heilvick and to Ardmore. It was nearly dark when we got to Ardmore where there is an interesting round tower. The tower instead of smoothly tapered sides has annular rings of stone twenty feet apart protruding from the surface. Late in the evening I remembered that it was the Marine Corps Birthday. I broke out my small bottle of Jameson and John joined me in a toast in honor of the Corps.”

Next :  On to Dingle for the seventh annual Cork-Kerry Weekend with Timmy McCarthy.

Thursday, 11 November 1999

“After supper John and I went to one of the pubs in Clashmore for a couple of pints. The village is a short two blocks long and has five pubs. The pub was nice and had a billiards tournament of some sort going on in the back but only a few up front by the fire. I took a chance on the local GAA lottery but apparently didn't win.

Friday, 12 November 1999

After breakfast we loaded up and set off for Dingle, [and the Cork-Kerry Weekend with Timmy McCarthy.] We arrived at Eileen Collins B&B just at sunset. After getting unloaded and meeting some of the other guests we patrolled the town looking for the Hillgrove Hotel. [Site of the weekend workshops and ceilis.] We tried again later after a tea and still did not find it. Concluding we had gone too far up the very dark and narrow Connor Pass Road we turned back and encountered a gentleman walking along. He pointed out the building to us. It was a tough quarry. Closed for the season, except for special events, it sat back from the road and was unlighted.

We went off to dinner at Murphy's Pub [and then to] the An Conair pub for a session. Then to the Bridge Pub for more music where we learned there was indeed a ceili at Hillgrove. When we arrived there was a big crowd present and we bought our weekend pass and stepped right in. Thirty-six people from the Philadelphia Ceili Group were there; also some locals, and various Brits. The local band was pretty good but the dance quality was mediocre. The dances were the Sliabh Lucra, West Kerry, Ardgroom Polka, Connemara, Borlin, Waltz Cotillion and the Clare Lancers.

Borlin Set

This is danced in an extremely lively manner all over Cork and Kerry and neighboring counties, and it is a great favourite.

Squares: we saw three versions: (1) slide sideways to the right (or to the far right corner), slide sideways to opposite (or along the back side) and dance two turns to home (similar to the Ballyvourney Jig); (2) in closed waltz hold, facing each other and dancing side by side, gent backs the lady into the far corner on the right, lady backs the gent across the opposite side of the set and dance two turns to home; (3)in open waltz hold, both face the far right corner and advance side by side, then both back side by side across the opposite side of the set, take closed waltz hold and dance two turns to home. By far the most commonly danced versions were (1) and (2). But no one seemed to care as long as there weren't any collisions, and some couples varied their style during the dance.

Third figure: the ladies didn't move to the gents' left sides on the retire. Rather, the advance and retire was straight in and straight out for four bars. Then the ladies made a fast turn across towards the couple on the left, passing the gents on the outside and turning into place on the far side while the gents passed through in the middle of the set and turn into place. This maneuver is repeated to return home.

Fourth figure: invariably the version that starts with the two top couples leading around, followed by four squares and the house. No one danced the version of this figure that has two couples doing the Borlin-style kick polka body and house before they do the four squares.

Fifth figure: The doubled house tends to drift to the right as the figure progresses, (as it does in the West Kerry Set and other sets with a lot of doubling), but the dancers take great care not to overshoot or collide with the couple in front of them! And yes, they do lift the lady into the air at the end of the doubled house in the last figure!

Saturday; 13 November 1999.

Up to 0830, breakfast and away to Hillgrove. Door locked. Timmy and Rona McCarthy showed up and Timmy took off to find the key. He taught, in one day, the West Kerry, Ardgroom Polka, Mealagh Valley Set, Bantry Jenny, Baile Bhuire Reel and the Set of Erin. After class we went to Jim McCarthy's Chart House, an excellent restaurant.

Ballyvourney Reel

Mary McSweeney, who with her husband Diarmuid preserved this set and taught it locally for 18 years, demonstrated with Timmy McCarthy at a workshop in Dingle.

First figure: Mary says that top couples wheel (star) with the couple on the left both times in this figure. This is different from the way the dance is recorded in Toss the Feathers and other books, but it is recorded correctly in Larry Lynch's Set Dances of Ireland.

Second figure: the advance is right hand in right hand and straight into the middle of the set for both the lady and the gent. On the retire, the lady gracefully turns into promenade hold under the gent's arm. This is different from the more exaggerated four-bar turn sometimes seen during the advance and retire.

In this set and all the other Cork/Kerry polka sets, the polka body is not danced straight in and straight out before turning. Rather, couples advance toward the spot on the right as they step in and out. This makes the turn into the next position easier and more graceful.

Another large crowd for the ceili. Music by Johnny O'Leary and then locals who were very good.

Sunday, 14 November 1999

Workshop started late because of Timmy The Brit's notion that workshops should be fun, not penance. He taught two sets, the Sneem Set and Hurry the Jug. Lunch after was at Paudies followed by an afternoon ceili. At the start of the ceili the music was Timmy (McCarthy) and Simon Knight. Later a couple of local lads showed up who could hold their own anywhere. The dances were the West Kerry twice, the Baile Bhuirne Jig, Ardgroom Polka, Clare Plain Set, Caledonian and Hurry the Jug.

West Kerry Set

Fifth figure (ring and stars): in Dingle, the men's star is no longer danced. Instead, the figure is danced more like the first figure: the ladies star around 3/4 of the way, the men remain in place, and all swing for 10-12 bars with the new partner.

Per Timmy McCarthy, the fifth figure (ring and stars) and the hoppy (sixth, hornpipe figure) are never danced together -- it's one or the other.

Timmy McCarthy is a fine teacher and is passionate about the Cork and Kerry dances. He had us near to tears as he described his interest in ensuring these local dances survive. He explained he doesn't hate reels but that he leaves the teaching of the Clare sets to those from Clare.

After it all ended and we had goodbyed everyone we went to dinner at Paul Smith's The Mystic Celt. Another excellent restaurant. We were surprised at the number of good places to eat in Dingle so late in the season. Although Seamus Begley was playing at the Bridge pub we gave up and went to bed.

Monday, 15 November 1999

After leaving the B&B we drove over Connor Pass and along Brandon and Tralee Bays the day being nice. We found the Annabella B&B in good time in Mallow and after checking in patrolled the town looking for the Heritage Center. Hard to find but when we found it the place was closed. Gave up and returned to the B&B for a nap before the evening's trip.

At 1900 we left for Millstreet. Driving in the dark was a challenge. We missed the turn in Aubane but decided as we crested out on the mountain that we had gone too far. The real problem on these mountain roads is to find a place to turn around. They are very narrow and usually have a ditch running down both side for drainage and no shoulders at all. It's even more fun in the pitch dark.

We got down to the village and found the turnoff in time to be on time. The Community Center is in a recycled school house. There was a fire going in the grate and as soon as we came in we were invited to pull up a chair and move in. The leaders are John and Eileen Sheehan. Music was by Challenge, Michael and Patrick Twomey, on box and piano. We danced the Sliabh Lucra, Clare Lancers, Clare Plain Set, Cashel, Baile Bhuirne Jig and the Connemara. Tea was served at the break with homemade scones, sponge cake and cookies, etc. All for three punt. We left at 0005 and were home at 0045.

Sliabh Luachra Set

Ladies' chain in the first figure is inconsistent: sometimes one turn with the gent and sometimes two, the ladies have to be prepared for either. But never under the arm, as in Toss the Feathers.

The changeover in the hornpipe figure is now danced almost universally in a circle. All hold hands, advance, retire, advance, then the gent turns the lady on the left under his arm to face him in waltz hold. (A few times the ladies just turned straight around on the inside to face the gent, but this seemed to be pretty uncommon.)

Tuesday, 16 November 1999

Strolled through Mallow killing time until the Heritage Center opened. After a lot of palaver and computer work it was concluded that the elusive McCarthy ancestor was not from the Diocese of Cloyne. This eliminated about one third of the County Cork. Since Cork is Irelands largest county this was less help than might be supposed.

Wednesday, 17 November 1999

Off early and turned the laundry in to be done. Not too many Laundromats in Ireland. One leaves the laundry and it is washed and dried for you. It isn't cheap either. The N20 to Cork is a good road and we were able to make good time until we got to the city and then we had no idea how to find the library. [After some research] we left at 1735. We arrived at the Annabella, picked up our shoes and headed west for the Rambling House.

As we sped through the night, Marilyn spotted a small sign on a wall pointing to our left. By that time we were past the turn but managed a 180 further along and struck out cross-country following the sign. A few miles along we came to a tee and another sign and turned right. A few more miles and we passed the sign for Rambling House, Again I didn't see it so we went to a place we could turn around and came back. There was a house with a lot of cars about which we concluded was it. I pulled in and parked and since there was no Guiness or Murphy's sign decided that we were at the wrong place

We went back to the sign and discovered a boreen one would think not fit to drive the cows along. This was our only choice so we went bumping through potholes and splashing puddles for several hundred yards where the road terminated in a dimly lit car park. There were various plaster caricature statues about so we got out and went to the door. I felt a bit like Hansel in the forest.

Inside we found a few people sitting around a fireplace. They ignored us. We picked out a place on a bench and looked around. The walls and ceiling were covered with old farm implements, pieces of harness, ancient posters and other detritus, the whole richly covered with cobwebs and dust. The high crowned floor was of plywood with a spritely bounce to it. The place slowly filled up at four punt a head. A set of eight came all the way from Allihies on the Beara Peninsula. One of the fellows was a carpenter who had spent twelve years working in the States.

We were invited into a set at the second go round and were able to dance several more. It was not like Aubane. The band was a box and a keyboard with a synthesizer and was much too loud. The sets danced were the Sliabh Lucra, Clare Plain, Cashel, Baile Bhuirne Jig, the South Kerry, danced by only one set, and the Connemara. Several dancers asked for a Clare Lancers as the last set but the Sliabh Lucra was danced instead. Anne Keane was there and told is that sometimes the music was better and the people more friendly. A long drive home followed.

Next : Dancing in Baile Bhuirne and Bantry.

18 November 1999

Both of us had colds and after loading up on Dimetapp, buying a good map of Cork City for the future, and picking up the laundry we left for Baile Bhuirne via Macroom. The road was very narrow and winding and hilly. Macroom turned out to be a fair sized town on the Sullane River but we pushed on to the The Abbey [Hotel.] After checking in and lunch we patrolled through the town to locate St. Gobnet's house and tomb. It is high above the town located near a ruined church and graveyard. The area is used for rounds where people walk a route along various paths to different spots.

After dinner we went to Larry Creed's ceili in the ballroom of the hotel. Although the owner is the founder of the Abbey Ceili band, we had a young fellow with an accordion and synthesizer. Great player. The dances were the Cashel, Corofin Plain, Port Magee Mezerts, Ballycommon, Newport and Connemara as well as some waltzes.

19 November 1999

After breakfast we loaded up and drove westward through the countryside to Kilgarvin. Here we abandoned the main road and drove southeast over the mountain through spectacular scenery. As we drove along we saw a sign to the grave of MacCarra and decided to find it. There was a stone wall built around his grave slab and a marble monument with an inscription in Gaelic and English. It appeared to have been built in the 19th Century. The inscription read:

Donal
Chieftain of the McCarthy Fineens
This in faithful remembrance of him

He died in the battle of Collon, August 1261
Where he liberated the Kingdom of South Munster
From Norman domination forever
He himself was killed at this very spot
Where he was buried
May his soul have rest in the Kingdom of Heaven
And the souls of the men who died with him

Amen

There had been nearly seven hundred years from the time of his death until the monument was put up and the people never forgot the story.

We eventually arrived at the N71 and turned south towards Bantry to arrive at the Reendesert Hotel in Ballylicky. [Site of a dance weekend with Pat Murphy.] The ceili, run by Olive Lynch, featured Finbarr Dennehy on button accordion with synthesizer. Other fellows joined in. The sets were the Sliabh Luachra, Cashel, Baile Bhuirne Jig, Connemara, Corofin Plain, Waltzes, the Military Two Step, the Borlin and a couples dance.

20 November 1999

After breakfast Pat Murphy taught the Kildownet Half Set, Knockaboule Polka, The Williamstown Set and the Inish Oire.

Kildownet Half Set

Pat Murphy taught a fourth figure in his workshop.

Figure 4. Flings
All couples form a circle around the floor, with gents facing counterclockwise and ladies facing clockwise.
Rocks: With each couple in waltz hold, gents rock forward on left, while ladies rock backward on right, then rock back to starting position (1 and 2 and), then both slide to the gent's left (1-2-3). Repeat, with the gent rocking forward on the right while the ladies rock backward on the left, then rock back to starting position, slide to the gent's right (1and 2 and 1-2-3).

Repeat the rocks to the left and right.
All couples dance around the house, doubling the last two bars.
Repeat several times

The Abbey Band played the ceili at the Bantry Boys Club, a huge old building that may have once been a warehouse. The sets were the Clare Plain, Inish Oire, Sliabh Luachra, Newport, Cashel, Clare Lancers and I think the Connemara. It started late and finished late. We didn't get home until 0200.

21 November 1999

Pat taught the Killyon and the Borlin Jenny. We had lunch and then to the farewell ceili. The music by Johnny Connolly of Galway and Michael Twomey on keyboard was great and the dancing spirited. The sets were the Connemara, danced twice, North Kerry, Clare Lancers, Clare Plain, Corofin Plain, Borlin Jenny, Baile Bhuirne Jig and the Newport and waltzes.

Borlin Jenny

(As taught by Pat Murphy, Bantry, November 1999)
(Similar to the Borlin Jenny taught at Cape May in October 1999, but different from the Bantry Jenny taught by Timmy McCarthy in Dingle)


Figure 1. Lead around (right hand in right)  Reels
Figure: Right hand in right, all couples advance and retire twice
Top couples right-hand wheel and left hand return with couple on the right, gents shaking hands across and ladies shaking hands across

Square (With a bouncy step, and dancing side by side, gents back ladies into the position on the right, dancing skip1-2-123. Then each couple turns halfway around on the spot, battering while dancing 1-2-3, 1-2-3. The lady then backs gent into the next position, dancing skip1-2-123, with couple again battering and turning on the spot on the opposite side. The man then backs the lady into the position 3/4 of the way around, the couple batter and turn halfway around, and finally the lady backs the gent into their home position, with the couple battering and turning into their own places on the last 1-2-3, 1-2-3. The person who is going forward starts on the left foot each time and the person reversing starts on the right foot each time.)

House
Repeat: figure (top couples dance with couple on the left), square, house


Figure 2. Lead around, right hand in right
Figure:
All couples advance and retire once, bringing the lady's hand over the head and onto the shoulder on the retire (ladies don't turn)
Lead around to opposite side, turn lady out to face into the center

Repeat: Advance and retire and lead around to place
Square, house
Repeat: figure, square, house

Figure 3. Lead around, right in right
Figure:
Right hand in right, all couples advance and retire once
Gents swing the lady on the left in ceili hold
Right hand in right, gents advance and retire once with the lady on the left
Ladies go home and gents swing own partner in ceili hold

Square, house
Repeat: figure, square, house

Figure 4. Lead around, right hand in right
Figure: Sevens past partner and back to place

Square, house
Repeat: figure, square, house

Figure 5. Lead around, right hand in right
Figure: Reverse chain (around partner to corner, with gents continuing on clockwise and ladies counterclockwise around the set) shaking hands with each person met, until dancing around partner into home position

Swing partner in ceili hold
Square, house
Repeat: figure, square, house

Figure 6. Lead around, right in right
Figure: Ladies right-hand star and left back to place, passing in front of their partners
Gents right-hand wheel, left-hand return
Gents keep left hands in center, pick up partner in open waltz hold, and lead around the set

Square, house
Repeat: figure, square, house

22 November 1999

We were bound for a B&B at Ballygarvan south of Cork. We had a whole day to get there so decided to explore the Beara Peninsula. The drive was beautiful again along Bantry Bay to Castletownbere. We continued on eventually arriving at Ardgroom where we found a stone circle some distance off the road. We took some pictures and left driving along with the Kenmare River on our left. Not much going on out there in November. We stopped at a pub and were told there was no food served "at this time of year."

It was dark by the time we found the Green Isle B&B, but we found it.

23-26 November 1999

Breda Savage and her husband Tim at the B&B turned out to be very nice. After she fed us breakfast, and armed with our new map of Cork, we took off for the County Library. There were only three microfilm readers to be had so Marilyn signed up for afternoons, which gave us the morning to roam around. We continued the same routine for the next four days.

Wednesday after the library closed we took a long hike around Cork in the dark killing time until dinner and Timmy's class. When we got back to the An Aras, where the class was to be held, we found that Timmy McCarthy had not taught there for two years. Check the dope in the Set Dance News was the lesson. Thursday we set out to find Kitty Murphy's class at the GAA Hall. We never found the Hall so missed that one. We did find the Carrigaline Pipe Band Hall, and marked it as the spot for the Friday CCE class. The CCE class turned out to be beginners learning the Cashel Set. They also did the Peeler and the Goat and the Schottische, both new to us

We learned at the CCE class that there was a session in the Hotel Bar. We had avoided it previously because it had a sign "Authentic Traditional Irish Bar." We decided later the sign was a lure for the tourists getting off the ferry from France or Wales. We were encouraged to come along by one of the dancers. He was a British transplant named Pete(?) Trotter and his Scottish wife, Olna, sat with us while he played. The session was unusual. It began with a hornpipe. Many more were played along with some slides and jigs. Trotter had a small battery operated amp for his mandolin to carry it over the boxes and flutes. He played O'Carolan's Draught as a solo and it was wonderful.

27 November 1999

Saturday morning we got organized and left to find the ferry from Passage West over to Cobh. We wanted to visit the Cobh Heritage Center. As the day was wearing on we set out for Fermoy, our next stop. The Grand Hotel is on the banks of the Blackwater River. We arrived in the rain and found several gents on the river walk fishing for roach and eels. The hotel is quite old and we had a front room looking over the river and the weir. We did not sample the pub sessions or music workshops that were part of the weekend but were on time for the Abbey Band to open up. It was quite crowded and lively.

28 November 1999

Sunday dawned cold and rainy. After breakfast we loaded up the car in the rain and headed off to Dublin on the N8 to Port Laoise and the N7. The weather was awful with heavy rain and very strong winds, which blew the car about. The B&B was near Donnybrook but past the commercial area. It was quite cold and once we were checked in I went off to get a paper and found a Doyle Hotel a few blocks away for dinner.

29 November 1999

We walked along Nassau Street and bought some books for the grandchildren. At the Library Marilyn jumped into the Catholic parish records.

30 November 1999

We rode the bus into town to save the expense of parking. We walked to the National Museum and spent the morning looking at the marvelous gold artifacts and other displays before returning to the Library. We went back to the car stopping at the Old Stand for dinner. I had the lamb stew. I was about one-third done when the barman showed up with a bowl of meat and told me he thought I'd been dealt a pretty puny serving, mostly gravy, and he went to the cook for more meat. By then it was off to the B&B and bedtime. The adventure was over.

1 December 1999

Despite the head winds we arrived in New York on time only to find our Trans States flight was delayed. After loading and an aborted takeoff we landed at BWI two hours late. Arrived home via taxi twenty-three hours after we started.


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